Kusum Kanguru means "three snow-white gods", and its three summits stand directly above the Dudh Kosi where every Everest trekker walks past underneath. It has a reputation as the hardest of Nepal's trekking peaks and it deserves it: every route on the mountain is steep, the rock is not always as good as you would like, the ice conditions vary enormously through the season, and there is no easy escape once you commit to the upper ridge. Teams turn back here regularly, and the ones that summit tend to be small, experienced and unhurried. We run it for alpinists, not for people stepping up from Island Peak.
TerraBlaze runs this climb end to end: the NMA permit and park fees, the trek in, a fully staffed base camp, a licensed climbing guide and a climbing Sherpa on summit day, fixed rope on the steep ground and an evacuation plan filed before you land. You bring the fitness — we handle everything else.
Three things that set this permit apart — the mountain itself, and the support that gets you up it.
Steep mixed climbing on the south-east ridge with sustained exposure and no straightforward retreat from the upper mountain.
These peaks are graded on difficulty rather than height. The summit is earned with rock, ice and route-finding, and turning back is a live possibility every season.
While the trekking peaks fill up every autumn, these summits see a handful of teams a season. You will often have the route entirely to yourselves.
Climbs are planned in phases rather than fixed days — the mountain and the forecast decide the exact schedule. Every confirmed booking gets a full dated itinerary before departure.
You are met on landing and taken to your hotel in Kathmandu.
We complete the climbing permit paperwork, introduce you to your guide and go through your personal equipment item by item. Anything missing can still be bought or hired at this point.
The team reaches the mountain by a flight to Lukla and a two-day approach up the Kusum Khola towards the three summits above the Dudh Kosi.
The walk-in is paced for acclimatization rather than speed — short days, controlled altitude gain and rest days where the profile needs them.
We establish Kusum Kanguru Base Camp (4,800 m) with dining, kitchen and toilet tents, and run a route briefing and a systems check with your guide — anchors, abseil set-up and descent plan — rather than a beginners’ course.
Your climbing permit — NMA Group B trekking-peak permit — is arranged and paid for long before you arrive.
The team moves up to establish the 2 high camps this route uses, carrying loads and sleeping high before dropping back to rest.
Meanwhile the climbing Sherpas fix rope on the steeper ground above.
When the forecast gives a usable window the team leaves high camp in the dark for the summit of Kusum Kanguru (6,367 m) via the South-east ridge.
After the summit we descend all the way to base camp the same day.
We strip the high camp and carry everything off the mountain — nothing is left behind.
The return retraces the approach at a faster pace, ending with a celebration dinner in Kathmandu and your climbing certificate.
The same transparent structure we use on every trek and expedition — you know exactly what is in the number before you commit to anything.
From the day you land until the day the last load comes off the mountain, the logistics and the safety net are ours.
Every climb is planned by staff who have stood on these summits themselves
Climbing permit, park fees and liaison paperwork arranged end to end
A real training day on snow, not a ten-minute briefing at the last lodge
Rest days paced to the mountain, never squeezed to shorten the trip
Boots, crampons, axe, harness and down kit available in Kathmandu
Emergency oxygen, pulse oximetry and an evacuation plan filed before you land
A high guide-to-climber ratio on summit day, every departure
One transparent quote — permits, camp, crew and support all included
"Three summits, and the mountain decides which day — if any — you get one of them."
— Kusum Kanguru, 6,367 m
Scenes from the ranges we climb in — click any photo to view it full size.
Kusum Kanguru — the objective
Prayer flags on the walk-in
Base camp on the moraine
The summit-day panorama
The last lake before the ice
The approachSend us whatever you have walked or climbed before and your preferred season. We reply within 24 hours with a written, itemised quote — and an honest view on whether this is the right peak for you right now.
Fully licensed Nepali agency — Regd No: 125496/078/079
Boots, crampons, axe, harness and down kit available in Kathmandu
We will tell you if a different peak suits your experience better
Kusum Kanguru Climbing • 21–24 Days • Free quote within 24 hours
