A stone Gurung teahouse in a hillside village with snow peaks beyond
Annapurna, Western Nepal

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Mardi Himal Climbing

15–17 Days 5,587 m Moderate Bookings Open

Duration 15–17 Days
Summit Altitude 5,587 m
Best Season Spring & Autumn
Climbing Route North-west face and ridge
Under the tail of Machhapuchhre

Climb Overview

Mardi Himal is the small peak hanging off the south ridge of Machhapuchhre, and the trek that shares its name has become one of the most loved short walks in the country — a narrow forested ridge that climbs out of rhododendron into a viewpoint standing almost underneath the fishtail summit. The climb continues past where the trekkers stop: base camp on the moraine, then a north-west face of moderate snow and ice with a fixed line on the steeper band, and a short summit ridge. It is the lowest peak in this tier and the friendliest introduction to real fixed-rope climbing, in probably the best scenery available for the effort.

TerraBlaze runs this climb end to end: the NMA permit and park fees, the trek in, a fully staffed base camp, a licensed climbing guide and a climbing Sherpa on summit day, fixed rope on the steep ground and an evacuation plan filed before you land. You bring the fitness — we handle everything else.

  • Route: North-west face and ridge — 1 high camp above Mardi Himal Base Camp (4,500 m)
  • Season: Spring & Autumn, the windows either side of the monsoon
  • Experience: Comfortable walking in crampons and on a rope; previous trekking above 5,000 m strongly recommended
  • Permit: NMA Group B trekking-peak permit, arranged by us before you arrive
A stone Gurung teahouse in a hillside village with snow peaks beyond
Mardi Himal — tap to enlarge
What Defines This Climb

Climb Highlights

Three things that set this permit apart — the mountain itself, and the support that gets you up it.

Ridge Trek

The Mardi Ridge Walk-In

Five days along a forested ridge that ends with Machhapuchhre, Annapurna South and Hiunchuli standing directly over your camp.

  • Short, scenic approach with no domestic flight needed
  • Moderate fixed-line climbing on the north-west face
  • Machhapuchhre close enough to see every flute on its face
Jumar & Abseil

Real Fixed-Line Climbing

Steeper ground than a beginner peak: a headwall or ridge where you ascend a fixed rope with a jumar and come back down it on an abseil.

  • Rope fixed by our own climbing Sherpas before summit morning
  • Full skills session at base camp, not a rushed briefing
  • The standard qualifying experience for a 7000m permit
Summit Push

High Camp, Alpine Start

A night in a tent above base camp and a start in the dark — the rhythm of a real expedition, compressed into one summit day.

  • High camp stocked and pitched by the support team
  • Summit day usually starts between 1 and 3 in the morning
  • Oxygen and a comprehensive medical kit held at base camp
How the Climb Runs

Climb Phases

Climbs are planned in phases rather than fixed days — the mountain and the forecast decide the exact schedule. Every confirmed booking gets a full dated itinerary before departure.

Phase 1

Arrival, Briefing & Gear Check

  • Hotel • Permit • Kit check

You are met on landing and taken to your hotel in Kathmandu.

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We complete the climbing permit paperwork, introduce you to your guide and go through your personal equipment item by item. Anything missing can still be bought or hired at this point.

Phase 2

Trek to Base Camp

  • Approach • Acclimatization

The team reaches the mountain by a drive to Pokhara and Kande and a five-day ridge trek through Forest Camp and High Camp to the base of the Mardi glacier.

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The walk-in is paced for acclimatization rather than speed — short days, controlled altitude gain and rest days where the profile needs them.

Phase 3

Base Camp & Climbing School

  • Base camp • Skills session

We establish Mardi Himal Base Camp (4,500 m) with dining, kitchen and toilet tents, and run a full practice session on the fixed line — jumar, abseil, crampon technique and crevasse rescue — before the first rotation.

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Your climbing permit — NMA Group B trekking-peak permit — is arranged and paid for long before you arrive.

Phase 4

High Camp & Acclimatization

  • 1 high camp • Rotation

The team moves up to establish high camp, carrying loads and sleeping high before dropping back to rest.

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Meanwhile the climbing Sherpas fix rope on the steeper ground above.

Phase 5

Summit Day

  • Summit • 5,587 m

When the forecast gives a usable window the team leaves high camp in the dark for the summit of Mardi Himal (5,587 m) via the North-west face and ridge.

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After the summit we descend all the way to base camp the same day.

Phase 6

Descent & Return

  • Descent • Certificate

We strip the high camp and carry everything off the mountain — nothing is left behind.

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The return retraces the approach at a faster pace, ending with a celebration dinner in Kathmandu and your climbing certificate.

Clear From the Start

What Your Quote Covers

The same transparent structure we use on every trek and expedition — you know exactly what is in the number before you commit to anything.

Included

  • NMA climbing permit, national park and conservation area fees, and all TIMS paperwork
  • Airport transfers and hotel nights in Kathmandu before and after the climb
  • Domestic flights or ground transport to and from the trailhead
  • Teahouse accommodation on the trek and full-board camping at base and high camp
  • Government-licensed climbing guide, plus a supporting climbing Sherpa on summit day
  • Group climbing equipment: fixed rope, ice screws, snow bars, anchors and high-camp tents
  • Porters or pack animals for the approach and the return
  • Base camp medical kit, pulse oximeter and emergency oxygen
  • All meals on the trek and at camp, with a cook crew above the last lodge
  • TerraBlaze climbing certificate on successful completion

Not Included

  • International flights and the Nepal entry visa
  • Personal climbing gear — boots, harness, axe, crampons, helmet and layers (hire available)
  • Travel and rescue insurance covering climbing and helicopter evacuation at your summit altitude
  • Meals and accommodation in Kathmandu beyond the nights listed
  • Tips for your guide, climbing Sherpa and porters
  • Personal expenses, hot showers, charging and drinks on the trail
Climb With Confidence

How We Look After You

From the day you land until the day the last load comes off the mountain, the logistics and the safety net are ours.

Climber-Led, Not Desk-Led

Every climb is planned by staff who have stood on these summits themselves

NMA Permits Handled

Climbing permit, park fees and liaison paperwork arranged end to end

Skills Taught Properly

A real training day on snow, not a ten-minute briefing at the last lodge

Acclimatization Built In

Rest days paced to the mountain, never squeezed to shorten the trip

Gear You Can Hire

Boots, crampons, axe, harness and down kit available in Kathmandu

Oxygen & Medical Cover

Emergency oxygen, pulse oximetry and an evacuation plan filed before you land

Small Teams

A high guide-to-climber ratio on summit day, every departure

No Hidden Charges

One transparent quote — permits, camp, crew and support all included

"You climb it looking straight up at the fishtail. There is no better backdrop in Nepal."

— Mardi Himal, 5,587 m

Good to Know

Frequently Asked Questions

Comfortable walking in crampons and on a rope; previous trekking above 5,000 m strongly recommended. Jumar, abseil and crevasse-rescue practice at base camp before the rotation. Tell us honestly what you have done before and we will tell you just as honestly whether this is the right peak for you this season, or whether another one on this page would serve you better.
We run this climb in spring and autumn — the two windows either side of the monsoon, when the snow is stable and the skies are clear. Departures outside those windows can sometimes be arranged for private teams, but we will be candid with you about the reduced chance of success.
The quote depends on the season, the size of your team, the level of Sherpa support you want and the current NMA permit fee. Email us at booking@terrablazeadventure.com or send the form on this page and we will reply with a full written quote, itemised line by line, within 24 hours.
You need double or insulated boots, crampons, an ice axe, a climbing harness, a helmet, a headtorch and a proper layering system including a down jacket. All of the hard climbing kit can be hired in Kathmandu — we send a full checklist with your booking confirmation and go through it with you at the pre-climb briefing.
A policy that explicitly covers mountaineering to the altitude of your summit, including helicopter search and rescue plus repatriation. Ordinary trekking cover usually stops below the height of these peaks. We check your certificate before departure and will tell you if the ceiling is too low.
No responsible operator guarantees a summit — weather, snow conditions and your own body all get a vote. Our guides are instructed to turn a climber around whenever the risk stops being acceptable, and that decision is never held against you. There is no refund for an early descent, but your guide stays with you the whole way down.
Yes, and many climbers do. An extra week of trekking beforehand is the single most effective thing you can do for your acclimatization. Tell us what you have in mind and we will build it into the same quote.
Reserve Your Place

Plan Your Mardi Himal Climbing

Send us whatever you have walked or climbed before and your preferred season. We reply within 24 hours with a written, itemised quote — and an honest view on whether this is the right peak for you right now.

Licensed & Trusted

Fully licensed Nepali agency — Regd No: 125496/078/079

Gear You Can Hire

Boots, crampons, axe, harness and down kit available in Kathmandu

Honest Assessment

We will tell you if a different peak suits your experience better

Request Your Booking

Mardi Himal Climbing15–17 Days • Free quote within 24 hours

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